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NGAI SHING -----The First Hong Kong Manufacturer
For
Complete Wrinkle ¡V Free Garment Machinery
Ngia Shing Development Limited devoted to developing
new products each year in order to fulfill market
demands. According to Mr. Yu Kau, the director,
who's in charge, the company started researching
in wrinkle-free garment machinery three years
ago and finally they are able to provide complete
wrinkle-free machinery after years of research
and improvement.
Mr. Yu emphasizes that Ngai Shing is the first
Hong Kong manufacturer who can provide complete
series of wrinkle-free machinery including from
dipping resin, drying, pressing, ironing and curing.
Beside of price economy, one can also enjoy the
advantage of easy and direct co-operation with
the manufacturer.
Garment manufacturer dealing with wrinkle-free
technology used to keep the secret of their production
skill and manufacture procedure. With the
increase in the number of factories and the technology
interchange between manufacturers and chemical
suppliers, wrinkle-free technology becomes more
accessible and popularized.
Production Methods:
| 1. |
Pre-cure
Fabric
dipping and curing are processed in fabric
plant, as is suitable for executive shirt
which doesn't require washing effect or
permanent crease. It is appropriate
to process wrinkle-free treatment in fabric
plant, then the apparel manufacturer mainly
deals with wrinkles emerged from sewing
procedure such as front placket, sleeve
seaming, yoking, side seaming, pocket seaming
etc, among which front placket, armhole
and side seam are the three major parts
that needs special handling.
Front placket, collar, cuff top fuse with
high pressure interlining.
Side seam, arm hole: Add fusible tape in
sewing process, then press and heat through
special press to bond the upper and lower
cloth together, thus eliminate wrinkles
brought about by sewing.
The piece goods for wrinkle-free garments
as mentioned above is not confined to resin-treated
fabric only. As a matter of fact,
the fabric that contains high synthetic
fiber already maintains wrinkle-free effect.
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| 2. |
Fabric Dipping post-cure
| a) |
At
the early stage of post-cure method
dipping resin procedure is done in
fabric
plant, where then fabric is air-dried
under low-temperature and stored in
warehouse of 18¢XC. The fabric
is produced into a finished garment,
then well pressed and process in curing
oven.
This method is in used both by shirts
and trousers manufacturer. However,
the shape of the bulk press have to
be cope with the shape of the garment,
and the pressing head need to raise
temperature up to 160¢XC for a better
pressing result and slight cure the
resin on the fabric.
Shirts:
Shirts front press, Yoke press, side
seam press.
Trousers:
Trousers topper press, trousers leger
press.
Ironed clothes must be taken to the
oven curing for 5-8 minutes, temperature
about 140-160¢XC.
The wrinkle-free effect will be greatly
spoiled if the garment require washing
afterward. In addition, the
quantity and quality of resin dipped
by fabric manufacturer, which the
apparel manufacturer cannot control
or test, are of great importance.
It can be interpreted that the wrinkle-free
effect depends mostly on the quality
control measures of the fabric manufacturer
and the friction influenced by washing.
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| b) |
Garment Dipping Post Cure
The Pre-cure and fabric dipping post-cure
methods are inappropriate for those
garments that needs both wrinkle-free
and washing effect. Since in
these two methods, stereotyped garments
are then washed industrially where
the mechanical friction will spoil
the wrinkle-free effect greatly.
To keep both wash and wrinkle-free
effect, the garment have to be first
washed, then dipping resin, and last
are in an oven.
In this method, a) the production
of garment and b) the washing process
make no difference in general operation.
The final step c) wrinkle-free treatment
can be done in washing factory or
clothing factory. The key technology
this wrinkle-free process lies in:
| i) |
The quantity of
resin absorbed; |
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| ii) |
The quantity of
resin left in clothes after spin-drying. |
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| iii) |
Drying clothes not
unduly dried. |
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| iv) |
Ironing effect has
to be very smooth. |
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| v) |
Fully ironed clothes
keep dry and crisp. |
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| vi) |
Clothes kept straight
during transportation. |
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| vii) |
Shorten the time
period after dipping resin process
up to oven curing. |
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| viii) |
Temperature in the oven have
to be even and temperature increase
should be fast.
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The above-mentioned essentials constitute
the best method for wrinkle-free treatment
of washed garments and become the
prevalent trends also.
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| 3. |
VAPOR
PHASE
The ready-made garments finished and then
chemically spread in sealed cabinet, the
stereotyping process then fulfilled.
However, this method did not become popular
because it is a patented product and the
equipment is exorbitant.
Group Organization and Alertness
The wrinkle-free effect cannot be easily
accomplished. It requires frequent
co-ordination of each department, for example:
| i) |
If the dipping resin process done
in fabric plant, it is difficult to
foresee the effect
brought about by curing oven and
industrial washing process on the
piece goods. While it is after
a fairly long period that the finished
piece goods are utilized by apparel
manufacturer, thus any problem arising
during the process is past remedy.
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| ii) |
Ordinary washing factories do not
have ironing skill. If ironing
result is not good, crease mark will
retain on the garment after oven curing.
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| iii) |
If the wrinkle-free treatment
is done by the apparel manufacturers
who have not any experience on chemical
processing, it is difficult for them
to control the ingredients. |
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| iv) |
From the human source
respect, it is essential that all the
operation staffs be highly alert and
subordinated to the prescribed production
schedule. |
Market Outlook
Wrinkle-free clothing is still starting
from scratch. In a busy modern world
where consumers are too busy to iron their
clothes at home, if the production technology
and chemical products keep improving which
make wrinkle-free effect more steady and
retentive and the ready ¡V made clothes felt
more comfortable, the technology may actually
possess immense development space and potentiality.
According to Mr. Yu, the wording wrinkle-free
and no-iron press etc. are actually big
obstacles to the development of such kind
of ready¡Xmade garment. The fact is
that ¡§wrinkle-free¡¨ and ¡§no-iron¡¨ effect
can never be produced by garment manufactures,
and consumers, may be alert to or place
too high hopes on such wordings. So
we shall aim at ¡§easy care¡¨ and that is
an attainable and indispensable effect for
all garments in the future.
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